From the category archives:

Italy

Love and Monsters

October 31, 2009
Mouth of the ogre

It’s 1750.  You’re riding through the woods of northern Lazio in central Italy, a stranger to the area.  Suddenly, a massive, moss-covered stone ogre appears in the fog.  If you have the nerve to go inside, you find a central stone table encircled by carved benches.  It’s dark, damp, eerie.  A site for macabre dinner parties?  Ritual sacrifice?

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Hitting the Chianti Trail

September 9, 2009
Castello di Poppiano

I’ve never been one for touring vineyards.  The thought of tripping through Napa with the wine snooties certainly doesn’t appeal.  I do like to drink wine, but never bothered to find out much about the places that produce it.  Though I always admire a pretty vineyard view in the countryside.  Hell, I’ve never even seen Sideways. 

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Lunch With The Grouch

September 2, 2009
Pasta with truffles

To paraphrase (very loosely) Ebenezer Scrooge - if I had my way, every restaurateur who goes about with truffle oil on his menu would be boiled in a vat of truffle oil and buried with a vial of the vile stuff stuck through his heart.  There may be good truffle oil out there, but I haven’t tasted it yet.  I detest [...]

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Osteria al Pugnalone

August 31, 2009
Chef Francesco Sacco

In case anyone was wondering if the Verizon Global Access international wireless modem works, the answer is basically…no.  We arrived in Rome on Saturday and I’ve had no internet access since we left the house in Benano.  After about a thousand dollars worth of Rome-USA cellphone calls with Verizon, I am on line.  At least [...]

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Benano Barbecue

August 28, 2009
Benano barbecue

I remember you.  So said the extremely attractive lady manning the counter at the butcher shop in Torre Alfina.  And Bones is certainly memorable.  For starters, he is six and a half feet tall.  This makes him a good foot or so taller than most of the population of Torre Alfina.  Then there is his Italian.  Bones’ [...]

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Cucina di Bambini

August 28, 2009
Fettucine with Shrimp and Cream

It’s not all sagras and restaurants.  Hotel rooms are fine for a day or two, and I love a good restaurant meal.  But I need a kitchen.  I need to shop the local markets, check out the local ingredients.  I need to cook.

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Market Day in Orvieto

August 24, 2009
Pretty pink things

We’re all rather fond of the local Coop supermarket.  The girls like being able to get Italian Cocoa Pops and I’ve become embarrassingly addicted to the Coop brand of sliced, pre-packaged mortadella.  I think it reminds me of the bologna I ate as a child.  Whatever the reason, I go through an average of a package a [...]

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Lake Bolsena

August 23, 2009
Tiny car

When two food-crazy grownups travel with two not-quite-teenage girls, some compromise is necessary.  This particular grownup would be happy with a visit to the local market in the morning followed by a leisurely three hour lunch, an afternoon nap, and then dinner.  Throw in the exploration of a few ancient villages, a cathedral or two, and a museum, and that’s all I [...]

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My House in Umbria

August 23, 2009
Sorting fennel

No train attacks, no mute children, no carpenter ants, no Maggie Smith.  But, like the character, Aimee, in the movie My House in Umbria, I’d like to stay forever.  My house in Umbria is the Rocca di Benano, in the tiny hamlet of Benano, just up the hill from Orvieto.

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Italian Lessons

August 20, 2009
Pizza

Lest you get the idea that all the food in Italy is orgasmic, let me assure you Italia has its fair share of disappointing eating experiences.  But there can be a lesson in any restaurant, even this poor one on the shore of Lago di Bolsena.

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Osteria La Quintaluna

August 17, 2009
Baccala

Sometimes you know.  You just know.  You stop at a restaurant for lunch at 12:30 and it’s closed.  Mostly likely closed for the August holidays.  But something brings you back another day to try again.  It’s that voice inside that says “go here, not there.  Here is where you are meant to be.”  A few [...]

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Sagra degli Gnocchi

August 17, 2009
Hooray for sagre

Another day, another sagra.  And so it goes in Italy during the August holidays.  Sunday was the last day of the Sagra degli Gnocchi in San Lorenzo Nuovo, a few miles down the road from Benano.  We meant to go to the sagra at Sorano in the afternoon but jet lag overtook us and everyone slept most of the morning.  [...]

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Season of the Sagra

August 17, 2009
Sagra delle Pappardelle al Cinghiale

Italy makes me cry.  My first trip to Italy came about during a rough point in Bones’ and my life.  We were grief-stricken parents and came to Italy to heal.  We did a lot of crying, a lot of eating, and eventually, though slowly, we came back to the land of the living.

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