Pasta Cooked Like Risotto

Duck and Porcini Gnocchini alle Risotto

This method for cooking pasta like risotto has travelled a few miles to get to my kitchen. My version was inspired by a recipe from Patricia Wells at Home in Provence, a favorite in my cookbook collection.  Ms. Wells’ recipe was in turn inspired by a dish she tasted at French chef Alain Ducasse’shotel-restaurant in the Provencal countryside.  And, according to some sources, Mr. Ducasse says the recipe originated with workers in the olive groves of Liguria who didn’t have water for boiling pasta.  So, from the Italian countryside via Provence to Sleepy Hill, Tortola, here’s my take on pasta cooked like risotto.  Roll on globalization.

Pasta and porcini

Duck and Porcini Gnocchini ”Risotto”

Given the absence of cream, butter or meat, this pasta cooks up to be very rich and deeply satisfying. I do recommend using a good robust homemade stock.  Canned stock wouldn’t bring anything (except a lot of sodium) to this particular party.  I used stock that I’d made with the carcass of the last duck I roasted.

a handful of dried porcini mushrooms
1 1/2 cups hot water
5-6 cups homemade stock (chicken, duck or vegetable all work well)
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 large shallot, peeled and minced
1 pound short pasta, such as gnocchini, penne, cavatelli or orecchiette
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup dry white wine
a handful of freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving
chopped fresh parsley to garnish

Soak the mushrooms in the hot water until they soften, about 20 minutes. Drain the mushrooms, reserving the liquid. Chop the mushrooms and set aside. Heat the stock and reserved mushroom soaking liquid in a large saucepan and keep it at a low simmer.

Heat the oil in a large deep skillet over medium high heat. Add the chopped shallot and cook until softened.  Add the pasta and stir so that all the pasta is coated with oil. Cook, stirring constantly, until the pasta starts to brown at the edges, about 3-4 minutes. Season with the salt and stir in the white wine. Cook, stirring, until the wine is almost evaporated, then stir in the chopped mushrooms.

Stirring in the stock

Start adding the stock, one ladleful at a time. After each addition, stir until the stock is almost absorbed into the pasta, then add another ladleful. Keep the heat at a simmer, adjusting as necessary to maintain a lazy, even simmer. Continue adding the stock, stirring constantly, until the pasta is al dente. If you run out of stock before the pasta is fully cooked, add a little hot water.  The pasta should not dry out; you want a little liquid left to make a “sauce.”

When the pasta is cooked to your liking, stir in a handful of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.  Garnish with parsley and serve immediately, passing more Parmigiano at the table.  Serves 8 as a starter or 4-6 as a main dish.

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